المرأة وحليتها في العصر الأموي کمظهر حضاريّ

The Umayyad era exhibited a variety of material cultural features, giving an impression of the life and environment in which people lived. Despite the desert life in most Arab countries, many cultural features appear in the poetry of this era. The multiplicity of these features indicates the presence of civilization in Arab environments. This era came in the wake of a transitional phase characterized by a shift in the old value system, a reconsideration of the constant and familiar, and of matters that are taken for granted in the mind. The Arab personality was afflicted with a considerable amount of anxiety, questioning, and division. Thus, the individual and social self became the subject of contemplation, consideration, examination, and review. Women were a fundamental element in this self, and were afflicted with the same anxiety, questioning, and reconsideration that afflicted the self. The image of the perfumed woman stands out as an indication of women's interest in themselves and their cultural advancement through their use of perfume as an aesthetic aspect. The poet also shows the advancement that was clearly evident in men's dealings with women as human beings. The research results point to the reflection of the influence of civilization on women, represented in their adornment, represented by the desire of Arab women to acquire jewelry, pearls, silver, pearls, etc., with which to adorn themselves. The question that arises here is: How is the cultural aspect of the Umayyad era manifested in women and their adornments, and how is this reflected in poetry? To answer this question, we relied on a descriptive-analytical approach.
 Keywords: Umayyad era, Arabic poetry, civilization, women, adornment.
Introduction
The Umayyad era witnessed a decisive transformation in the history of Arab society, paved by the early days of Islam. Part of the transformation occurred from a nomadic phase to a more urban one. In no more than a century, the Arabs' faith changed, and they left their deserts and villages, carrying their new faith to settle in different lands. Numerous civilizations arrived, introducing diverse cultures, customs, and traditions they had not previously known. There is no doubt that this migration and arrival, along with the conquests, revolutions, and unrest that accompanied them, profoundly shook the Arab psyche. The Arab environments in the Umayyad era were influenced by the cultural aspects of other nations, especially the Persian civilization. The Arabs’ interaction with other nations and peoples played a major role in their acquisition of many cultures and aspects that were not known to them before. This interaction contributed to strengthening and developing their cultural aspect. These matters were not limited to the mirror of the self alone, but rather extended to the social self. Thus, society reconsidered the position of women in relation to men, and from this social life that boils and seeths only change and transformation as a way to it. The early Islamic period, in addition to what I have mentioned, represented the heroic age in Arab history. In this era, ancient Arab chivalry witnessed its tremendous launch, and, filled with the spirit of the new religion, it rushed forward, destroying the two empires of the ancient world: the Romans and the Persians, and establishing on their ruins the first centralized Arab state in their history. History teaches us that women were greatly appreciated and cared for in heroic eras. When the matter fell to the Umayyads, the ethnicities of that recent heroic age remained alive and well in this new society. The new system of values had settled and consolidated, despite the occasional revolt against it from the sediments of the old values. However, this was the revolt of one who defends himself against extinction, not the revolt of the dominant ruler who refuses to be rivaled or equaled. Aspects of civilization were noticeably reflected in the inhabitants of the Umayyad state, both men and women. Women were influenced by civilization, and the influence of civilization was reflected in their concern for themselves and their attention to outward appearance. In light of this massive cultural shift, it was necessary to look at some of the adornments of the women of that era and the role of women in the new society. The bottom line is that women received a generous share of care and attention in Arabic poetry in general, and Umayyad poetry in particular. Viewpoints towards them differed, especially in pre-Islamic poetry. Some poets viewed them objectively, and the names that appear in the introductions to their poems or during them were names of real women, while others saw them as fictitious names whose existence was not real.
Materials & methods
The Arab environment during the Umayyad era was influenced by the cultural aspects of other nations, especially the Persian civilization. The Arabs' interaction with other nations and peoples played a significant role in acquiring numerous cultures and aspects previously unknown to them. This interaction contributed to strengthening and developing their cultural aspects. These aspects of civilization were significantly reflected in the inhabitants of the Umayyad state, both men and women. Women were influenced by civilization, and its influence was reflected in their self-care and attention to their outward appearance. Women during the early days of Islam and the Umayyad era enjoyed a status unmatched by any other woman in any era, both morally and materially. From the beginning of the Umayyad era, religious knowledge, including jurisprudence and interpretation, emerged, and women participated in this phenomenon. They studied science and knowledge, and devoted themselves to the study of Sharia, jurisprudence, hadith, poetry, and literature. Examples of women include Aisha bint Talha, who was known for her poetry criticism and singing, and for her interactions with poets, storytellers, and men of letters. Rabia al-Adawiyya was an ascetic worshipper who embodied her innermost feelings in her many delicate poems, expressing her divine love for the source of beauty. The question that arises here is: How was the cultural aspect of the Umayyad era manifested in women and their adornments, and how was this reflected in poetry? To answer this question, we relied on the descriptive-analytical approach.
Discussion & Result
Umayyad women were distinguished by their cultural prominence, strength, and boldness in meeting and engaging with men in culture, literature, and art. This research presents a portrait of Umayyad society, including aspects of civilization in Umayyad poetry, through poets' descriptions of these aspects, particularly those of social sophistication, the most important of which were wine gatherings and their paraphernalia. The discussion also addressed Umayyad women's interest in themselves, their clothing, and their influence in the new society, which was beginning to undergo changes that forced it to reshape itself, responding to the Islamic norms instilled within it and interacting with the cultural openness that surprised it with the extended conquests.
Conclusion
Migration and immigration, along with the conquests, revolutions, and unrest that accompanied them, profoundly shook the Arab psyche. In light of this massive cultural shift, it was necessary to examine some of the women of that era and the influence of women in the new society. During the Umayyad era, Arab women kept pace with their society, with all its civilizations and cultural influences. This enabled them to effectively and psychologically develop the Umayyad woman's personality and imprint it with a special character. As for describing the adornments of Umayyad women, Umayyad poetry did not forget them, and poets sang about them in their poems and discussed various types of jewelry, such as the possession of necklaces, anklets, scarves, earrings, etc., which Umayyad women cared about as a manifestation of their beauty, presence, and civilization in the new environment as well. The class of beautiful immigrant women, who knew singing and music, and whose effectiveness was enhanced by the sung-ability of love poetry, played a significant role. This class had a strong social presence in cities and palaces, and played a major role in portraying women as a civilized figure.